Every Saturday, Hisarüstü (the section of Istanbul I live in)
hosts an open-air market. Most of the vendors perch their stations at the top of a steep
cobblestone path that runs down to the Bosphorus. Like many farmers’ markets in
America, this market offered everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to salted meats
and fish.
Walking between the stalls I picked up on the familiar
pungencies of strawberries, tomatoes, and squash, which reminded me of
summertime in the States. There was also a nice hint of citrus that helped
level out the musky scent of goat cheese and fish. To compliment the aromas, there
was a bevy of bright shades and hues; the stark white cheeses, the ruby red
tomatoes, the fiery oranges, the deep plum of the eggplants, and the yellow
sheen from the lemons all pooled in a heady medley of color.
I had to use exceptional self-restraint to not buy everything
in sight: the dried apricots were calling out to me on one side, but across the
street those cute little bananas were giving me the puppy dog eyes. I went with
the bananas.
Turkish bananas are a little smaller than the Chiquita
bananas that populate grocery stores in the U.S., so I figured I would get
a bunch to carry around with me as light snacks during school days. I scanned
the signs for the cheapest price, went up to the vendor, and in mangled Turkish,
asked for two kilos of bananas. I knew going into this whole thing that 1 kilo
is equivalent to 2.2 pounds. What I didn’t realize was just how many damn
bananas are in 2.2 pounds. A kilo of bananas was only 3 TL (a little less than
$2), so ordering three and half dollars worth of bananas seemed reasonable at
the time. I rethought the whole "reasonable" thing after being handed 4 dozen bananas.
Next stop was the cheese vendor. He gave me a bunch of samples,
and I was particularly partial to the fresh mozzarella, so I decided to order a quarter kilo, trying to avoid making the banana mistake again. Of course, I didn’t actually know how to
order a quarter of something in Turkish. But I did know the word for half, so
in my optimistic reasoning, I thought that by saying “half half kilo,” I would walk away with a quarter. The cheese guy wasn’t quite on the
same page. “Half half kilo” to him meant two half kilos, AKA one kilo. Only
after he had neatly wrapped up these two halves in nice packaging did I realize
my mistake. I didn’t have the heart or the language skills to say that I wanted less, so I paid him and walked away kicking myself.
I then strut up to the guy selling oranges, determined to
come away with a reasonable portion of food this time. I ordered half a kilo of
oranges, he weighed a few out, and handed me a perfect amount. I was so
satisfied with my success that I unthinkingly set the oranges on the ground in
order to reach for my wallet. Remember how I said the market was perched on top
of a really steep hill? Yeah, well apparently oranges, being quite spherical
and all, have a tendency to obey the Law of Gravity. Who knew? Eventually I was
able to recover all of my oranges; my dignity, though, is another
story.
And so sums up my adventure at the market. Lessons I’ve
learned:
- Eating 48 Turkish bananas before they rot means eating 7 bananas a day.
- Eating 7 bananas a day is not a healthy lifestyle. Nor is it an enjoyable one, it turns out.
- Despite a truly gallant attempt, it is not possible to finish two pounds of cheese in one sitting.
- Round things like to roll down hills.
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